Beaches, Clubs and History in Barcelona by Rich Carriero

There are very few trains from Granada to Barcelona. The ride is approximately 16 hours long and traverses a great deal of mountainous terrain before arriving on the Mediterranean. The distance is too far for most bus lines and air travel within Spain is prohibitively expensive so I decided to take the overnight train. The atmosphere on the train was extremely festive and reminded me of something out of a spy novel. The bar car was a popular hangout with tourists from all over the world meeting and telling stories as the train sped through the warm night air. The train stopped periodically at deserted terminals for long periods of time. Sometimes I would get off a nameless, deserted station to enjoy a cigarette. Sometimes I just watched through the window. I have never been able to sleep well on any form of transportation but eventually I gave up and went to my seat, reclined as far as I could, felt instinctively for the pouch containing my passport and traveller's checks that lay against my skin. Eventually I did manage a few hours of fitful sleep.

When I woke the sun was shining through the window of the car. I looked out upon the country that passed by the window. We were passing through the outer suburbs of Barcelona. They looked to me like the suburbs of any major city. In the distance I could see the gun metal band of the Mediterranean Sea. Something stirred in me when I saw the sea for the first time. While the Bay of Biscay and the English Channel are both awe inspiring sights, both are also merely extensions of the Atlantic, a body of water from which I have lived no more than 3o miles for my entire life. I had never seen the Mediterranean before, a place which I had only read about in history books and European novels.

Immediately upon disembarking from the train I felt the thick humidity of the Mediterranean climate. I made my way from the train station through the crowds of the city with my pack heavy on my back. The central boulevard of the city, Las Ramblas, is a hot bed of activity. Tourists, street performers, vendors and prostitutes all mingle about this central artery of the city. My hostel, Barcelona Dream, was located on a street of Las Ramblas. Barcelona Dream is an excellent choice for low cost accomodations. The rooms are clean with balconies overlooking the street below. There are free lockers, computers, plenty of bathrooms and a spacious lounge with couches and televisions downstairs. The hostel was an interesting mix of all nationalities and I quickly made friends with a number of people from all over the world with whom I would check out this fantastic city.

After dropping my gear I made my way post-haste to the beach. The walk to the beach was a long one which took me down Las Ramblas again to its terminus by the docks of the Port of Barcelona. I could see the Olympic Village left over from the 1992 games with the magnificent metallic circles of the Olympic Rings. I made a left and followed the broad promenada which ran parallel to the Sea. Throughout Barcelona that June there were orange flower petals all over the streets which fell from the trees. Their color highlighted the vibrance of this ancient city. One of the first things I noticed was the pillar of Christopher Columbus with arm extended toward the New World. As I wandered east toward the public beaches I came across many arab vendors selling various hand made crafts and other sundry items. I did buy a pair of sunglasses from one of them to shield my eyes from the piercing sunlight that shone down. My walk took me past mansions crawling with ivy, government buildings flying the Spanish colors and modern art sculptures that stood in the open for all to admire.

The beach was extremely crowded. At that time I had become accustomed to Spanish beaches which are adorned throughout the season with nearly naked and gorgeous European men and women. The white sand was hot but the beach was large enough to handle the many tourists who basked in the sun. There were many other differences to beaches I had seen elsewhere in my travels. Patrols of vendors selling drinks or jewelry wandered the beach in packs of two or three. When I swam in the water of the Mediterranean it was blessedly warm, like the Gulf of Mexico in summer. The water was a flat grayish blue and there many flat stones of incredible colors in the surf. I took home with me two gorgous rocks that I found in the surf at Barcelona. I spent much of my time on the sands.

Over the course of my four days in Barcelona I saw and experienced much. One of my first stops after settling in for a day was the statue of Columbus. I paid the three euro for the ticket and rode the elevator up the narrow column to the observation deck at the top. Although the column is only fifty feet or so high it offers a magnificent view of the city. One can see the harbor, the surrounding hills, and the buildings of the city stretching into the hazy distance. The column of monument is so narrow, though, that it shakes in the wind which I found to be a slightly nerve-wracking situation. I did stay long enough to take my best photos of Barcelona.

I also made my way to the local history museum, which, as it turns out, is built on the Roman ruins of the original town of Barcino. The museum was built adjacent to the cathedral in the center of the city, within the original Roman walls, which still stand and ring the heart of the current city. The ruins themselves were discovered when the land was excavated during the construction of the current museum and becames its premiere exhibit, last stop for museum visitors. Along with a wonderful girl from Australia that I met in my hostel, I visited this museum. The primary exhibit in the museum was a study of Don Quixote. Don Quixote is a book that every American student studying Spanish has to read at some point or another. The work gives us the word quixotic, which means overly idealistic and the term tilting at windmills, a metaphor which signifies any obviously futile action. In Spain, however, the book takes on special significance and is considered a national treasure as much as the Puerta del Sol and the Alhambra. The exhibit detailed Spain the time of Don Quixote and particularly focused on Quixote's visit to Barcelona. I learned a great deal about Barcelona in that museum. I learned that Barcino was one of the original Roman towns in Spain, dating back over two thousand years. During the Civil War the town, along with much of Spain sided with Pompei against Julius Caesar. Barcino thrived through the centuries on trade and fishing. During the black plague in the 14th century Barcelona was almost wiped out just as most Mediterranean ports which engaged in heavy trade.

After learning all about Barcelona's long history we took the elevator below street level to the site of the Roman ruins. We walked over catwalks which extended over the remnants of a winepress which still has the fossilized remains of grapes on the floor. We also saw an ancient dyeing factory, which had the traces of bright colors used to dye cloth. The excavation told the story of a town that thrived on commerce millennia ago. While I would see even more remarkable exhibits in Rome later that summer, at that time, these were oldest archaelogical remains that I had ever seen.

Adjacent to the history museum sits the cathedral of Barcelona, a gothic masterpiece which sits atop the ruins of many ancient churches dating all the way back to the ancient Roman temples of Barcino. The cathedral is a magnificent example of gothic architecture with its soaring vaults, columns and chapels. In the center of the Cathedral is an open courtyard in the middle of which is a pool of water. A gaggle of swans swim in the water or walk around the courtyard creating a light and beautiful contrast to the austerity of the gothic church. I enjoyed the atmosphere of cathedral so much that spent half an hour sitting on a stone bench in silent enjoyment of the place.

After three weeks of travelling in Spain I did not set an ambitious itinerary of sightseeing but rather decided to wander about where ever I felt like going. In addition to the museum and sights I have already mentioned I also saw a city that was grimy with age, pollution and population. Many humdrum buildings on out of the way streets were decorated with magnificent graffitti murals of cartoonish figures. The streets were covered with flower petals and everywhere a bright sun shone down at all times. By night the city became a very exciting place.

Barcelona in many ways reminds me of tropical cities in America like New Orleans or Miami. All such cities by night are places of revels, mystery and danger. Barcelona is heavily trafficked by thieves, hookers and panhandlers who seek to make a living by fleecing the unwary tourist. I found it best not to walk too far from very public areas and to travel in groups. Barcelona more than compensated for this dark side, however, by its incredible variety of bars and clubs. Along the waterfront there are many small bars and big clubs where one can enjoy a refreshingly cool cocktail or dance to contemporary dance music and hip hop. All in all I found Barcelona to be an exciting city where I had a good time, learned a great deal about Spanish history, enjoyed lots of sunshine on its fantastic beaches and relaxed in the low key atmosphere. Barcelona was a great way to round out Spain before travelling on to France.

Sunny San Diego

We had the privilege of living in San Diego, California for just under four years, when our children were quite small. The U.S. Navy sent my husband there to work on a ship, so we were lucky enough to be housed in Navy housing quarters; in San Diego, that meant we were only a couple of miles from the beach. While there was navy housing scattered all over the huge city, ours was in scenic Pacific Beach. We were even on a slight hill so if we craned our necks, we could see glimpses of the ocean from our front yard. We could also see the tower at Sea World, as well as the fireworks that were set off there every Saturday night during the summer months. The best thing we found about San Diego, however, was that there are countless things to do there. In fact, in four years of living there, we did not get to do everything on our list of things to do; there simply was not enough time and there are too many options!

One of our favorite spots in San Diego was the world famous San Diego Zoo. Not only does the zoo offer all that makes it famous - giant pandas, polar bears, amazing habitats for the animals, and a plethora of species, many which are endangered - but it also has a jungle-like beauty that makes visitors forget they are in the middle of a huge city. The zoo is laden with countless palm trees and other tropical plants. All paths are paved and there is shade to be found around every corner. There are many restaurants, snack shops, and snack stands all around the zoo, depending on the taste of the visitor, or if visitors bring their own lunch, there are plenty of picnic tables and area in which to rest and relax. The San Diego zoo offers special passes for groups or multiple day visits, and even season passes.

Our other favorite place to go in San Diego was Sea World. Not only was Sea World a refreshing place to visit on a warm summer day, it had all the wonderful attractions such as dolphins, penguins, polar bears, countless types of fish, sting rays, sharks, and of course the beloved Shamu. For anyone staying in San Diego for a week or longer, Sea World offers summer camp programs for children where they can make new friends and learn about sea life in a safe and fun setting. Our son went to the Sea World camps two years in a row and absolutely loved it.

Belmont Park is a small amusement center on Mission Beach in the central part of coastal San Diego. With an old roller coaster, several other rides, and many video games, Belmont Park is a fun place for children and adults even on the rare rainy days in San Diego. Yet on sunny days, the beach is just steps away; in fact, the view of the ocean from the top of the roller coaster is something to behold!

San Diego also offers the Gas Lamp District, which is a downtown area full of trendy restaurants and pubs, with all the streets decorated by old-fashioned gas lanterns. La Jolla, just north of the city, is another good place for restaurants, as well as shopping. La Jolla has been touted as a small version of Beverly Hills.

Still, our favorite place to go while we lived in San Diego was simply to the beach. Especially after moving to the northeast where we always have to park far away and pay an entrance fee to go to the beach, we enjoyed San Diego where we could simply ride our bikes or park and walk onto the beach, no charge. The beach was large, clean, and had plenty of lifeguards. When we got hungry, we could walk up the boardwalk to our favorite restaurant or find something at one of the many snack shacks.

All in all, San Diego is a wonderful place to visit and to live. Even if one must live on the eastern side of the city, the beach is not far away, the weather is delightful for much of the year, and there are always plenty of fun things to do. I would highly recommend a visit to sunny San Diego.

Whale Watching In New Zealand

By Simon Woodhouse

In recent years, ecotourism has moved away from being the exclusive haunt of environmentalists, and shifted into the consciousness of your average holidaymaker (example - me). As with most things, there are degrees of ecotourism. Hardcore environmentalists might think nothing of tramping through the Himalayas, or paddling a canoe up the Amazon. I haven't quite managed that level of commitment just yet, but I do like the idea of interacting with the world at large, seeing it as it really is, and doing so in such a way as to cause minimal damage.

Societies changing attitudes to the natural world can be seen in the decline and fall of one particular industry - commercial whaling. Thanks largely to mass media exposure, as soon as people saw just what a barbaric practice commercial whaling really was, it didn't take long for organized public pressure to result in it being outlawed. This level of activism is understandable, because whales and dolphins are amongst the most beloved animals on the planet. Besides the decline in commercial whaling, attitudes toward marine parks are also changing. Though there's nothing quite as spectacular as seeing dolphins and orcas up close and in full flight, is it really fair on an animal whose natural home is the sea, to keep it penned up in a tank? With the best will in the world, a marine park can't offer the same environment as the open ocean. Though getting on a boat and spending a day at sea might not be as convenient as sitting in a marine park grandstand, it is the only way to see whales and dolphins at their best - in the wild and free to go wherever they please.

Whale watching tours out of Auckland, New Zealand, run nearly every day of the year (weather permitting). I first went on such a trip toward the end of May 2004. As I'd never been on that sort of excursion before I wasn't sure what to expect. The boat departed from the quayside around mid-morning, and made its way out of the harbor toward the open ocean. As Auckland Harbor is a very sheltered body of water, the conditions there don't reflect what might be happening out at sea. The harbor can be as flat as a millpond, whilst a little way out from shore there might be a heavy swell. On this particular day the sea conditions weren't a problem. There was hardly a wave in sight, something which made whale spotting that much easier. We'd hardly been going for more than about twenty minutes, when one of the crew pointed out a pod of dolphins.

New Zealand has quite strict rules governing the whale watching industry, and if the animals are feeding or sleeping, tourist boats aren't allowed to approach. Bearing this in mind, the boat's pilot stopped the engine and just let the vessel drift. Almost straight away the dolphins made a sharp u-turn and headed straight for us. For the next fifteen minutes or so they performed beautifully, as if they liked being the center of attention. They jumped out of the water, swam as close as they could to the boat, and even came along side escorting very young calves.

After this first encounter we headed further out to sea and came across a Brutus whale. Compared to the dolphins this creature was massive, easily as long as the boat. Then much to the excitement of the crew, it became apparent this was a mother and baby. As well as taking tourists out to look for whales, the team on the boat make detailed records of all their whale and dolphin encounters. This was the first sighting of young Brutus whale for along time. We followed the mother and calf for quite a while, as they seemed to be going in the same general direction as our planned route. Not long after that the crew spotted a mass of feeding gannets. This is a good sign, because it means there are schools of fish close to the surface, usually forced up by dolphins feeding on them from below. The crew maneuvered the boat right in amongst the birds (of which there were hundreds), switched the engines off and for about half an hour we just sat there. Though we saw no dolphins, this was the best part of the trip for me. The ocean was absolutely calm, there wasn't a breath of wind and the only sound was the birds diving into the sea.

Not long after this we had to head back to port. On the return trip we came across two more pods of dolphins, both of which stayed with the boat for at least fifteen minutes each. We were also shown just how environmentally concerned the crew were. Someone board dropped a plastic bag over the side, something that can be deadly to a whale if swallowed. Straight away the pilot stopped the boat, turned round and went back to retrieve the bag. We also came across a slick of what looked like oil floating on the surface. Though it's illegal, many container ships swill out their holds just after leaving port, and dump the residue of whatever they've just unloaded straight into the sea. One of the crew took a sample of the slick with the intention of giving it to the harbormaster, who in turn would have it analyzed and checked against the contents of vessels that had recently been in port.

Having left Auckland around mid morning, we didn't return again until late afternoon. I'm not much of a seafaring person, so I found being out on the boat all day pretty tiring. But the trip was worth it. Since then, I've never even been tempted to go to a marine park. Seeing animals in their natural environment, where they've got a choice about whether they want to be scrutinized or not, is so much more exciting than going to a zoo. Choosing to do this as part of a well-organized tour also ensures the animals are treated with respect. I can't recommend this experience highly enough, even to people who may not be particularly interested in dolphins and whales.

Dining in Rio de Janeiro (By 4Ernesto)

In the melting pot of Brazil, three quite different concepts of a square meal interacted delectably. The Indians, who were there first, contributed grains, vegetables and an appreciation of the abundant seafood. The Portuguese, who colonized Brazil, brought their stews and sweet tooth... and then imported African slaves who in turn added new spices and sauces.

Later immigrants introduced novelties from other nationalities: knackwurst, pizzas and hamburgers are fully assimilated by now. Brazil is a big country, with food to match. Whatever the recipe or its derivation, the raw materials couldn't be more auspicious.

Brazil is one of the world's leading cattle-producing countries, so the meat is first-class and relatively inexpensive. The South Atlantic provides a bonanza of fish and seafood. In the tropics, familiar fruits and vegetables are juicier than ever, and unfamiliar ones excite the adventurous palate.

You may not come to agree with the contention that Brazilian cooking is in the same class as French or Chinese (in my case Greek) cuisine for originality and grandeur, but you will certainly be glad to have made the acquaintance of Brazil's array of wholesome and fascinating food.

In Rio it is easy to find the right restaurant for your mood and appetite: a fish house on the beach or a candlelit French restaurant, a bohemian pasta parlor or a barbecue with waiters in Gaucho costumes. To find out what is going on in any restaurant, just look in the window (though in many cases there is no window at all, only tables overflowing onto the sidewalk). Restaurants post their menus beside the door, so you know the price range and specialties in advance.

Most tourists stay at Zona Sul beaches and quite logically take advantage of the many good restaurants nearby. But it is also worth exploring the central business district, which boasts a distinguished roster of French, German, Portuguese, Spanish and even Brazilian restaurants.

Hotels customarily include breakfast (cafe da manha) in the price of the room (fresh fruit juice, toast and rolls, butter and marmalade and coffee with hot milk). The hours are posted, usually 7 to 9 or 10 a.m. If you miss breakfast, you can catch up at a stand-up street-corner cafe. However, Rio's relaxing sidewalk cafes do not normally serve breakfast.

Meal times for lunch and dinner are uncommonly flexible. Lunch can start at 11:30 or 12:00, more fashionably at 13:00 or 14:00 and go on as long as you please. Dinner can begin as early as 19:30 or 20:00, but many restaurants stay open until 1:00 or 2:00, or until the last customer goes home. Most restaurants are open seven days a week.

The national dish of Brazil, "Feijoada", contains 18 or 19 ingredients and takes hours to prepare. It also takes hours to digest, which is why you will be wise not to order it at night. Most Cariocas eat it at lunch on Saturday, then take the rest of the day to recover.

If you like unusual combinations of tastes and textures, you will rave about "feijoada". This typically Carioca stew is a feast of black beans with sausage and other pork products and dried beef, flavoured with onions, garlic, chives, tomato, parsley and perhaps hot peppers, then served with boiled rice, cassava flour, shredded kale and (brilliant after-thought) fresh orange slices. It is almost obligatory to start or accompany this meal with a batida, Brazilian rum sour. Discreet "feijoada" fanciers follow this with nothing stronger than mineral water.

From Brazil's southernmost state of Rio Grande do Sul comes the cowboy food, "churrasco". Cariocas and tourists alike enjoy dining at churrascarias, which serve barbecued meat in the Gaucho style. Strips of beef or sausages, chicken or chops are skewered and roasted over charcoal. Authentically, the meat must be kept moist with brine; the spit is inclined at a 45-degree angle over the fire. Avery popular species of churrascaria advertises the rodizio system. For a fixed price, you get to eat as much as you want of all the barbecues in the house. Waiters arrive with one skewer after another, tempting you first with a sausage, then a chop, then a chunk of steak, a lamb cutlet... You do not have to know the language, but you need a formidable appetite.

The state of Minas Gerais, north of Rio, provides an exquisite little dish which would be worth ordering for its name alone: "tutu". A thoroughly prosaic translation would be black bean mush. But bean-lovers think "tutu" is too tasty to be true, being a subtle mixture of beans, bacon and sausage or jerked beef, manioc meal and onion, usually served with shredded kale and hard-boiled egg.

Brazil's foremest contributions to the art of cooking come from the northeast, where the Indeian, African and European currents meet. Rio is specializing in these spicy delights. Here are three of many celebrated dishes:

"Acaraje". A large fritter made from a batter of dried beans and dried shrimp, deep-fried in boiling "dende" oil, the yellowish palm oil indispensable to northern cooking. The resultant dumpling is split down the middle and liberally filled with a special sauce made of ground shrimp, chopped onion, peppers and perhaps a dash of ginger. It is served as a starter or snack.

"Vatapa” This Bahian specialty calls to mind shrimp creole, but it is more complicated, with subtly interacting flavors. The ingredients may include shrimp, fish, grated coconut, ground peanuts, cashew nuts, tomato, onion, hot pepper, ginger, coriander, olive oil, "dende" oil, pepper and salt. This is sauteed at length and served with rice cooked in coconut milk.

"Xinxim" (pronounced shing-shing), another name to inspire the imagination, is a chicken stew from Bahia. What makes it different from all other chicken-in-the-pot recipes is the addition of ground dried shrimp and the use of hot spices and "dende" oil. The hot sauce served on the side should be approached with caution.

Many Rio restaurants deal primarily in fish and seafood, often prepared according to Portuguese or Spanish recipes. As elsewhere, the price of lobster (actually crayfish or spiny lobster) could embarrass your budget. Other shellfish are within reasonable reach. Look for "zarzuela de mariscos", a thick Spanish version of a "bouillabaisse", or the Portuguese variants, "caldeirada" or "frutos do mar ensopados".

Generally, when they eat fish, Cariocas prefer a thick fillet, for they are nervous about fish bones. In many restaurants you will find dishes described vaguely as "filet de peixed" (fish fillet). The fish in question often turns out to be "badejo" (bass), tasty in spite of its anonymity, but sometimes overwhelmed by a thick sauce. You can also get excellent sole "linguado". The sauce called "belle meuniere" is a butter sauce complicated, with typical Brazilian enthusiasm, by the addition of shrimp, mushrooms, asparagus, capers and whatever else will make it seem luxurious. In the Portuguese restaurants, you can choose from many varieties of "bacalhau", dried salt cod usually baked in a rich sauce.

All over town you will find lunch-counter restaurants advertising "galetos" (spring chicken barbecued over charcoal). This makes a fast, cheap and often delicious meal.

Stand-up snack bars are everywhere. They are often called "lanches" (which means "snacks" not "lunches". These are the places to try some Brazilian appetizers (codfish balls, chicken patties, shrimp pies, cheese patties.

A recent development is the proliferation of American-style hamburger and hot-dog emporia, clean and brash and very popular with young Brazilians.

For snacks on the run there are countless pushcarts dealing in sandwiches, hot-dogs or popcorn. On many a Rio street you will find a lady from Bahia in her flowing dress, beads and white turban, sitting behind a tray of the richest but subtlest cookies and cakes imaginable. In a glass case beneath this she displays a few snacks home-made from the great recipes: "acaraje" and "vatapa", for instance.

Desserts in restaurants or at snack bars can be overpoweringly sweet, probably a combination of the Portuguese influences and the early boom of the Brazilian sugar industry. If they prove too much for your taste, switch to fresh fruit, which is varied and abundant and generally a joy.

In the tropical heat, you will work up a healthy thirst. No matter where you find yourself, relief is close at hand.

On the beach, barefoot salesmen walk past you every other minute offering soft drinks, mineral water, beer, or paper cups filled with iced lemonade or "mate" (pronounced MAH-chee) from their over-the-shoulder tanks. Here the Gaucho drink, "mate", is served very cold and sweetened; it tastes like tea with overtones of tobacco. Another Brazilian drink, bottled "guarana", is made from a fruit growing in the Amazon; it tastes a bit like cream soda.

Certain bars specialize in "caldo de cana", sugar-cane juice squeezed before your eyes in a special press. The soupy liquor is not as sweet as you would expect, and the after-taste is somewhat wooden.

Look for the bars advertising "sucos" (juices) with lots of fresh fruit on display. They serve as many as 20 different fruits, juiced as you watch. Do not limit yourself to the delicious orange juice; try some tropical specialties like "caju" (cashew-apple), "mamao" (papaya) and "manga" (mango).

Perhaps the favourite Carioca thirst-quencher (served at stand-up bars, sidewalk cafes and with meals in restaurants of all classes) is a "chope" (pronounced SHOW-pee), a glass of ice-cold draft beer.

Brazil's most popular aperitif, the "caipirinha" is similar to a Mexican margarita, but instead of tequila, the firewater is "cachaca", distilled from sugar cane. Ice and lemon soften the blow of this potent concoction.

A "batida" is a cocktail, usually whipped up in a blender, of "cachaca", ice, sugar and fruit juice. Among favourite flavours: lemon, orange, coconut and passionfruit.

Brazilian wines enjoy less fame than they deserve. The best of them come from Rio Grande do Sul, in the mild southern part of the country. There are reds, whites and roses to choose from. In hot weather all wines tend to be served chilled.

Brazilian beer is a great national asset, always served very cold. Draft (chope) is the favourite, but some restaurants only serve beer in bottles, sometimes large bottles.

After dinner many restaurants serve complimentary coffee, or you can have a "cafezinho" at one of the coffee bars. You are expected to pour sugar into the little cup (capacity just over 2 fluid ounces) before the coffee is poured. Brazilians like it very sweet, and very often.

There is no government tax on restaurant meals, but a 10 percent service charge is often added to the bill. If your waiter served you will, you might want to leave an additional 5 percent or more on the table.

Most restaurants offer an optional "couvert", often an overpriced dish of olives and pickled carrots, broccoli and cucumber and a few gulls' eggs. Feel free to wave it away if you do not find it appealing.

On most Rio restaurant tables are two shakers, one for salt and the other for tooth-picks. If you want pepper, ask the waiters for "pimenta"; you will probably be served a whole tray of condiments.

If a restaurant is full, it is not customary to join a table of strangers, even if only one person is occupying a table for four. You just have to wait for a free table.

A few key words that will help you read the food/drink catalogue and order are:

leite = milk
uma agua mineral = mineral water
um guardanapo = napkin
batatas = potatoes
arroz = rice
uma salada = salad
um sanduiche = sandwich
sopa = soup
acucar = sugar
cha = tea
vinho = wine
uma cerveja = beer
a conta = bill
pao = bread
manteiga = butter
um cafe = coffee
sobremesa = dessert
peixe = fish
fruta = fruit
um sorvete = ice cream
carne = meat
o cardapio = menu
frango = chicken
frito = fried
goiaba = guava
grelhado = grilled
lagosta = spiny lobster
laranja = orange
legumes = vegetable
limao = lemon
maca = apple
melancia = watermelon
morangos = strawberries
ovo = egg

I hope that this information will help you have a wonderful trip. Rio is beautiful and if you have the chance to dine there it will be an experience of a life time!!!

Enjoying 36 Hours in Vancouver, British Columbia

"Vancouver is a big city with west-coast attitude, but you never feel overwhelmed," is what the woman from Alberta said to me. We shared a seat on the Airporter Bus (the most economical way from Vancouver International Airport to downtown).

A four-day conference brought me to Vancouver, B.C. and most of my time was spent in a hotel ballroom. Thirty-six hours belonged to me and this is how I made the most of the journey.

The Vancouver Tourist Info Centre (200 Burrard Street) is the spot to begin any visit to the city. Maps, brochures, accommodation information and coupons are available, along with well-informed volunteers to help make the most of your visit. They can also help explain the Goods and Services Tax (GST) refund non-Canadian residents are entitled to.

With a strong Japanese population, sushi restaurants ranging from quick and cheap to chichi and upscale are everywhere. Three I enjoyed were Tokyo Joe's Japanese Restaurant, Mr. Sushi and Tsunami Sushi. Tokyo Joe's (955 Helmcken Street) and Mr. Sushi (775 Davie Street) were quick, cheap and tasty little spots. The selections at each are a bit overwhelming and include the basics such as maki sushi, nigiri sushi and sashimi. Luckily, both feature specials (or boxes) offering tastes off the menu. These start at $9.95 CAD.

My favorite was Tsunami Sushi (1025 Robson Street) because I had to catch my meal. Sushi, sashimi and edamame plated on color-coded dishes floated by on wooden boats and I grabbed what tempted me. A price sheet guided me so I didn't grab all the $5.95 dishes. The cost per plate varied between $1.95 CAD and $5.95 CAD. I complemented my meal with hot sake and a basket of vegetable tempura. Yummy! Total bill was about $30 CAD. Sitting at the counter around the floating boats is a good place to chat up the locals, too.

Breakfast one morning was a tasty salmon roll at the Granville Public Market on Granville Island. The Island is accessible by walking from Vancouver's downtown, but that looked boring so I took the False Creek Aquabus (water taxi), which was $2.50 CAD, much cheaper the cost of a taxi. While waiting at the Hornby Street dock (one of many docks along the waterfront), a seal occasionally popped its head above the water as it swam through False Creek towards English Bay.

Granville Public Market offers just about everything, from fresh produce to homemade jellies and local artwork to colorful flowers. Not everything sold at the Market can be brought back into the U.S., but some items can. I found some locally made spice rub for poultry and tea. Open daily between 9:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m., it's a great place for browsing and grabbing a bite for breakfast or lunch. Very close to the Market is Net Loft, an eclectic mix of artsy shops, galleries and other pretty, delicate things.

Sunset Beach Park is nice for walking along the waterfront. During my October visit, it was a comfortable 53-degree-Fahrenheit-day and this Floridian was bundled up in polar fleece and long slacks. Residents wore light jackets and many sported shorts. Beware: the path is shared with bikers and rollerbladers. Walking on the wrong side of the path will earn you an evil eye.

Vancouver is an excellent and easy walking city. As a solo woman traveler, I only walked alone during the day and relied on common sense to guide me away from sketchy looking areas. From Sunset Beach Park, Vancouver's southwest end, I walked at least 25 blocks to Chinatown in the northeast end. Although I felt safe, I would not recommend walking to Chinatown alone at night. Walking within Chinatown at night appeared as though it would be safe.

Unlike New York City's Chinatown where men whisper "Fendi," "Coach" and "Gucci" in the ear's of tourists (attempting to sell knock-off purses), Vancouver's Chinatown is an authentic community keeping in touch with the mother country. With limited time, I walked through the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. A lily pad layered koi pond welcomes visitors and is draped by a lazy weeping willow. The garden's walls create a sense of Chinese serenity but I laughed at the irony of classical Chinese-style buildings framed by the construction of 21st century high rises being built beyond Chinatown.

I stopped at the Chinese Cultural Center and learned about walking tours offered through Chinatown. Unfortunately, none were available to fit my schedule.

Wandering down Pender, Main and Keefer Streets, I took everything in. I sipped tea (and purchased more) at Ten Lee Hong Enterprises (500 Main Street) and browsed the spice shops and food markets. Dried lizard on a stick was being sold, along with dried scallops, seahorses and other dried critters. I'm not familiar with these delicacies and opted not to become familiar with their taste on this trip.

It was lunchtime, actually dinnertime with the time change, and I was desperate for food. Strangely, there aren't many Chinese Restaurants in Chinatown. I ended up at New Mitzie's Restaurant (179 East Pender Street) serving Western and Chinese cuisine. Although I could have ordered French fries with sweet and sour chicken, egg drop soup and lemon chicken was my lunch. The meal was okay and but wished I had found a more authentic dining spot. With drink, the meal was about $12 CAD.

Next was Gastown, just north of Vancouver's Chinatown. This part of town felt a bit gothic, yet trendy and chic with a touch of the wild west. There's a statue of Gastown's Founding Father, John Deighton ("Gassy Jack") on Powell Street. He earned the nickname for his "gassy" monologues as a saloonkeeper.

There was time to visit a couple of shops. One was Industrial Artifacts (49 Powell Street) selling furniture and accents crafted by recycled items. Street lights have been converted to candy dishes and lamps while industrial pieces like oversized gears from machine shops have been crafted to become coffee tables.

The other stop was at Hill's Native Art (165 Water Street), full of eye-catching masterpieces. Dozens of wood-carved, colorful masks cover the shop's entrance. Artists featured in the shop are from Canada's Northwest Coast First Nations who incorporate their heritage and 21st century influence into their work. Wood carvings, paintings and jewelry are some of the pieces on display and for sale.

If you want to enjoy more art, visit Gastown's Inuit Gallery (206 Cambie Street). Somehow I missed this gallery. I'm told it has a nice collection of stone and bone sculptures, wood carvings, drawing and tapestries. It's opposite the World's First Steam Clock, which is probably why I missed the gallery.

A busload of tourists surrounded what looked like an oversized grandfather clock and began taking photos. Not wanting to miss out on a Kodak moment, I joined in the picture taking frenzy. After the other tourists cleared, I noticed steam drifting from the clock and quickly read its history. It was built and designed by the owner of the Gastown Steam Clock Company, a horologist named Raymond Saunders in 1977. Every quarter of an hour, the clock whistles.

Gastown also has the typical tourist shops to purchase Canadian-made products such as maple syrup and maple cookies, pre-packaged salmon and fuzzy sweatshirts. But the coolest place I found to purchase Canadian food items is called Salmon Village (779 Thurlow Street) close to my hotel (the Sheraton Wall Centre, not in Gastown). Some of the products, like "Indian candy," (tender, twice smoked salmon marinated in maple syrup) and smoked salmon are made at the company's smokehouse in North Vancouver. All sorts of tempting treats like salmon jerky, salmon pate and gooey maple syrup are available for purchase. They can also help you ship items back to the U.S.

The most economical Canadian food items I found were at the local IGA (grocery store). Canadian maple syrup, pre-packaged salmon and salmon jerky were significantly cheaper than in the souvenir shops.

Away from Vancouver's downtown on the campus of the University of British Columbia is the Museum of Anthropology (6393 Northwest Marine Drive). The featured collection is from the Northwest Coast First Peoples and includes totem poles, feast dishes, canoes, masks and jewelry, to name a few. A 45-minute guided tour is offered throughout the day and is included in the $9 CAD admission.

There was so much I found interesting but one of the most fascinating was learning how the Native Peoples made four-sided boxes out of a single plank of cedar. They steamed a plank to make it pliable and formed a box. I was also impressed with the 4.5 ton wood carving by Haida artist Bill Reid called, "The Raven and the First Men." In 1980, the yellow cedar piece depicting a raven opening a clam shell and releasing Earth's first men, was dedicated. Members of the Haida Nation (referring to the indigenous people of Canada's Queen Charlotte Islands) brought sand to place around the sculpture, which is still part of the display.

Short on time (and it was pouring down rain), I grabbed a taxi vs. trying to figure out the public bus system to get to the museum. It was well worth the trip (about $44 CAD round-trip from downtown).

Having briefly tasted Vancouver, it's a region of North America I would like to return to on my own time. There is much more for me to discover and more sushi restaurants to sample.

- JA Huber

Taking Children to Monterey

Monterey, California is one of the most beautiful places on earth. With its mild temperatures, crystal clear water of Monterey Bay, clean beaches, quaint town, fisherman's wharf, and other attractions, Monterey is a great place for honeymoons, romantic getaways, and family vacations. In fact, Monterey is not just for adults; it is also has many fun things to do with small children.

We were privileged to live in Monterey for two years when our children were small. We moved to Monterey with the Navy when our son was four, and the next year, we were expecting our second child. We soon found that Monterey is perfect for children primarily because the weather is so mild. Monterey has sunshine nearly every day of the year. While mornings often begin with fog, by mid-day, the blue sky has taken over and the sunshine is abundant. The only time it rained in Monterey for the two years that we were there was during the month of February. The rest of each year was sunny. This gave us opportunities for bike riding, hiking on local trails, and long walks on the beach. Our son loved to play with his toys in the sand on the beach, so we did that quite often, even though the chilly Pacific was normally too cold for swimming.

One of the highlights of Monterey for small children is the Dennis the Menace Park and Playground. Dennis the Menace Park, created by cartoonist, Hank Ketcham, has brightly colored, fun playground equipment for children. The slides are fast, the rides bumpy, and there are signs encouraging parental supervision and even participation. There is a statue of Dennis himself, a sunshine staircase, a train to climb upon, and many other attractions. Visitors to Monterey will love the fact that just across the street from Dennis the Menace Playground is the main beach in Monterey, with its palm trees and incredible views of the mountains on the other side of the bay. Just next to the playground is a large pond (with a beautiful island, of course) on which children and their families can rent a row boat or peddling boat and take a jaunt around the pond; again, complete with the palm trees and Monterey Bay just across the street, right in sight.

On those rare rainy days, or on days when the children have had a little too much sun, the Monterey Bay Aquarium is a treat for children of all ages. Touted as one of the best aquariums on the planet, Monterey Bay Aquarium has amazing displays of marine wildlife including a plethora of fish, sharks, octopi, starfish, sea plants, and of course, the lovable and playful sea otters. The sea otters became endangered and almost extinct when they were easily hunted due to their seemingly fearless and playful view of humans. After spending many years on the endangered species list, sea otters today can be found all along the shores of Monterey Bay, playing among the rocks, lounging in the kelp, and cracking open crabs and shells with small rocks. The aquarium has a special sea otter habitat, as well as areas where children can watch videos about sea life and a special open pond where children can touch kelp, fish, starfish, rays, and other marine animals. In the main entrance to the aquarium, visitors will marvel over the giant two-story aquarium complete with a variety of fish and sometimes deep sea divers!

Fisherman's wharf is another favorite of small children because of the many shops carrying souvenirs and trinkets, but especially because of the crowds of sea lions and pelicans along the edges of the wharf. Sea lions can be heard barking incessantly, and their antics are always a treat for children and parents alike. Children will also enjoy the many restaurants on the wharf, all of which have a view of the bay, and parents will love the delectable sea food.

Lastly, take the children for a drive along 17-mile drive. This is one of the prettiest, most scenic drives you and your children will ever encounter. There are many places to stop and walk on the beach or climb on the rocks, and if you drive there at sunset, you are almost sure to see many of the deer that habit the Monterey Peninsula. Plus, the sunset is always something to behold. You and your children will have a visit you will never forget.

Mount Desert Island Marathon in Maine

Recently, we discovered that our good friend was planning to run in his fourth marathon, but this time, he would be running in a marathon fairly close to our home: the Mount Desert Island Marathon that goes from Bar Harbor to Southwest Harbor, Maine. This was a good chance for us to take a short road trip to Mount Desert Island, as we had not been for a visit in about seven years. The day we set out was a perfectly crisp, Maine autumn day; not only that, that fall foliage had been at peak status for the past several days, so color was still very abundant. We drove along what is normally a fairly boring highway, tree-lined on both sides; but on this day, we were awestruck time and time again by the reds, scarlets, golds, maroons, peaches, oranges, and many shades of brown. Even if we had never made it to Mount Desert Island, the day was so beautiful, the drive was enough.

Yet, when we turned south at Bangor, and drove through Ellsworth, the trees opened up and we could see even more trees on the rolling farmland in the distance. We passed small ponds, larger lakes, and crossed several rivers as we went. Finally, we found ourselves at the entrance to Mount Desert Island. We encountered the familiar road sign that directed us to either go left on Route 3 to Bar Harbor, or straight ahead on Routes 102 and 198 to Southwest Harbor. The Mount Desert Island Marathon began in Bar Harbor at 8:00 that morning and the route was to skirt the southern edge of the island and Acadia National Park. It then looped back up Route 198 to Route 102, and turned south again to end the grueling but beautiful 26.2 mile run in lovely Southwest Harbor. It was a little after noon, so we headed straight ahead on Route 102. Before long, we began seeing marathon participants running, jogging, walking, and trudging along the left side of the road. All participants were wearing the familiar numbers on the fronts of their shirts and jackets, and we began looking for our friend as we drove slowly along. There were mile markers that told runners their progress, and we saw many drink stands and resting stations. We did not really expect to see our friend running; spread out as they were, there were many people running the marathon.

Suddenly, there he was at mile 22, jogging along at a steady pace, so my husband jumped out of the car and jogged with him for about half a mile. We got a good laugh as my husband was dressed in blue jeans and hiking boots, but he claims that now he can say he ran in the Mount Desert Island Marathon! We drove on to the town of Southwest Harbor and parked so we could catch our friend at the finish line. We parked and enjoyed a lovely walk down the main road, along with the marathoners as they headed to the finish. The sky was a crystal blue and the leaves were simply breath-taking. After finding our friend's wife and setting up our cameras, it was not long before we saw our friend heading to the finish. We congratulated him warmly, spoke for a few minutes, and then gave him leave to rest, recover, and recuperate.

After our jaunt at the marathon finish line, we decided to spend the rest of our day driving around Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park. The other times we had been to the island were in the spring and summertime, so enjoying a Maine autumn at this beautiful area was a special treat. We drove past the rocky coastline, up to the summit of Cadillac Mountain, and back down into the quaint town of Bar Harbor. We had lunch at a delightful little seafood restaurant and then walked around the town, browsing in the shops. Finally we walked to the harbor to enjoy the view of the boats on the blue water, and then we wrapped up the day with ice cream at the Jordon Pond Creamery. I would highly recommend a visit to Bar Harbor. The people are friendly, the town lovely, and the scenery is unlike anywhere else on the planet.

History, Shopping and Nightlife in Granada by Rich Carriero

Madrid is a hot city; temperatures regularly climb well into the 90's and over 100 in the Spanish capital, but traveling south toward Granada is like driving into a furnace. The cities that line the Mediterranean coastline of southern Spain all are bathed in sunshine and a dry sweltering climate. Granada is not located on the coast, however, but further inland ringed by the Sierra Nevada mountains. The countryside that flowed past my window on the large coach looked like the rugged face of another planet. The mountains were bare of trees and buildings but studded with colorful and jagged rocky outcroppings. The earth was red and looked dry, hot and hard from the endless sunshine. There were very few cars on the road and I had the feeling of travelling through a waste land. The ride was long and bumpy but we arrived at last in the desert town.

When one thinks of Granada one thinks of the Alhambra, the fantastical muslim fortress built by the Moors that resisted centuries of attempts by the reconquista to capture it. The fortess became synonomous with the determination of the Moors to maintain their foothold in Spain. Granada at last fell in 1492 as the last piece of Spanish territory to be recovered by catholic Spain. The conquest, which many thought would never happen, coupled with Colombus' discovery of North America marked the beginning of Spanish dominence in Europe. For the Spanish the Alhambra is a powerful patriotic symbol of their determination and military might. For muslims the Alhambra is no less a source of pride as its luxurious palace and stern military fortifications overlooking the town of Granada are testament to the architectural genius an creativity of Islamic culture. I made a point of including Granada in my itenerary so that I might see the Alhambra for myself.

My accomodations were small but very exotic. The hostel was oriented around an open air patio that was brightly tiled and filled with desert plants. I asked the French couple who ran the hotel what they did when it rained. They told me that in Granada it never rained more than 4-6 times per year. Although I have never been there the decor of the hostel and indeed every building that I visited in Granada was extremely reminiscent of the Middle East. The walls were all painted white with large windows open to allow the passsage of air but recessed to block the oppressive sunlight. Everyone I saw was heavily tanned and wore white loosely fitted clothing of cotton or linen. Most people drank tea or coffee and smoked heavily. I found Granada immediately exotic and irresistable.

I spent my first day in Granada exploring. Granada is an interesting blend of Spanish and Islamic culture. The city is very old with narrow streets and old medieval buildings with many balconies and windows. The vegetation of the city was very typical of desert plants with tall narrow pines and short shrubs as well the ever present cacti. Near my hostel was a large plaza surrounded by modern shops and a Cortez Inglais. Cortez Inglais is the Spanish answer to Walmart. Its many floors are filled with all modern trappings of department stores-clothes, electronics and many other sundry wares. The store also had a large, lavish supermarket and the entire place was blessedly air conditioned.

The most attractive part of Granada was the Moorish quarter Albaicin, an area of old buildings and narrow streets located across the river and in the shadow of the Alhambra. The Moorish quarter was like something out of Casablanca. Street vendors hawked various handrcafted treasures at tables, tents and small shops. There were many ornate and gorgous incense burners, tea drinking paraphanalia, embroidery and jewelry. One of my most memorable experiences in Europe was haggling over tea and jewelry with the vendors who seemed to savor the lost art. The Moorish section of town also had many tea houses, which was also a wonderful experience. My Lonely Planet guidebook recommended a few particular places among which was the appropriately named Kasbah, which I visited to get out of the heat and enjoy some arabic tea.

Kasbah is awash in ambience. The dimly lit cafe has many rooms and compartments separeted by ornate tapestries. I chose a secluded booth and lounged on cushion covered wood benches while looking over a menu that advertised more varieties of tea than I knew existed. Based on its description as sweet and spicy I chose a Tunisian variety of tea and a hookah of rasberry flavored tobacco. Smoking flavored arabic tobacco is a rich experience, even for those who don't smoke cigarettes or cigars. The tobacco is sweet and smooth with little burning. Along with the tea (which was truly amazing) and tobacco, the atmosphere of Kasbah is the closest one can come to the luxuries of the Middle East without leaving Europe.

During my second day in Granada I determined to climb the high hill upon which the Alhambra is perched and see the historic fortress. On foot in the desert heat this turned out to be quite a task. The streets leading up the hill are narrow and windy and I lost my way several times. I brought two liters of water with me and drank about a liter and a half on the long climb. As I came closer to my destination the sides of the hill became steeper and were covered with an infinite variety of plants and man made waterfalls. At last I crested the hill and got my first look at the fortress up close.

The Alhambra is ideally situated for defense. The hill on which it sits dominates the town and surrounding countryside, making an ascent by an attacker a daunting one exposed to cannon fire and archers. The walls of the fortress are thick, steep and smooth, offering no vulnerabilty to be scaled or penetrated. The Alhambra complex is basically composed of three elements: the military fortifications, the gardens and the palace. The military grounds are open to visitors for the whole day of visit but due to the volume of visitor's an entry ticket to the palace is only valid for a short time during which a visitor must enter or be refused admittance. For this reason I went into the palace first.

The Alhambra's palace is unlike any castle, palace or cathedral that I have ever seen. Strict muslim tenets forbid the portrayal of the human form in order to discourage idolatry so there are no portraits or realistic paintings in the Alhambra. For ornamentation every surface of Alhambra is instead covered with geometric patterns carved into the soft white stone. Each window and portico is lined with distinctive Moorish arches. In addition the Islamic architecture places a noted emphasis on symmetry which can be observed everytime one looks across a courtyard or down a path to see identical arches and windows. The Alhambra is filled with reflective pools, hanging gardens and balconies that overlook the mountains, gardens and the town of Granada. The palace was a very soothing and luxurious place to walk through. I found a bench in one of the many courtyards and stopped to write in my travel journal. As I scribbled my thoughts on the page the sound of water flowing from countless fountains added to the tranquility that I felt. Although its architecture and decoration are like nothing I have ever seen in Europe or America, I found the Alhambra's palace to be one the most luxurious places that I have ever seen.

Outside of the palace one comes to the extensive gardens. The gardens are filled with flowers, fruit trees and more fountains. At one end of the garden a small waterfall collects into a pool from which a narrow channell is carved and leads downhill toward the palace in a long graceful straight line. At each stairwell leading down the water collects into another pool which in turn empties into another channell. In this way the entire palace and gardens are awash with water. After leaving the gardens I made my way to the military portion of the compound.
The Alhambra is an elaborate fortification filled with hallways, narrow stairwells and turrets. As I climbed each turrets I would stop to peer out the narrow slits which archers used to pour down punishment on attackers. Atop the turrets a strong refreshing breeze blue though the blue sky was completely unblemished by clouds. The turrets of the Alhambra offered the best vantage to view the Sierra Nevada mountains and the town of Granada. The town below looked as though it had been transplanted from the desert plains of Israel. Granada looked from afar like a honeycomb of squat white buildings and desert shrubs and surrounded by bare gray hills. On top of the highest turret flew the Spanish flag which was caught by the strong breeze and unfurled yellow and red toward the town below.

Granada is a favorite of backpackers and tourists looking to find the most exotic cultural experiences that Spain has to offer. For this reason the city has an exciting nightlife. Typically people gather early in the night at indoor-outdoor bars and wine shops to enjoy aromatic Spanish wine and plates of tapas rich in olives, cheese and seafood. I stood around just such a cafe with new friends from my hostel. Most of my roomates spoke English and came from Australia, Canada and UK and we were all brought together by the same language to seek our entertainment in the Granada nightlife. After the small bar and eatery we barhopped in the Spanish section of town, taking in the good wine and atmosphere of modern Spanish bars. Everyone danced, drank and had a good time but the best was yet to come. Everyone who knows Granada knows El Camborio.

El Camborio is not located in the modern part of town but rather on a high hill across from the Almhabra. The nightclub is built into the rock of the hill and its ground floor is actually undeground. El Camborio doesn't open until 3 AM but everyone in Granada finishes there night there. My cadre of Anglophones and I had the dubious honor of arriving at the club first, precisely at three. We explored the subterranean passages of the nightclub, marvelling at each room and running our fingers over the cool stone. We made our way upstairs to the upperfloor. The upstairs of El Camborio is a 180 degree difference from the lower story. There is a large dancefloor and bar encased in glass an an enormous terrace for enjoying the cool night desert air and the brilliantly illuminated Alhambra. My friends and I sat down around a table with cocktails and enjoying the night. Before too long the sounds of new arrivals emanated from downstairs as people began to flock to the club. By four both floors and every dancefloor was filled with people dancing, drinking and having a great time. At a time of night when most clubs in the States would be closing up shop El Camborio was just getting started. I danced until I could see dawn lightening the sky to the East. I went home exhausted and spent a low key day relaxing and wandering around town before my departure for Barcelona the next day. I only spent three days in Granada but the experience is among the most vivid of any place that I visited that summer.

Gay Travel To Columbus Ohio

For gay men, travel in the United Stated for gay men could be a bit daunting. Ever since the horrific events that took place at Stonewall in the mid seventies gay and lesbian issues have been brought to the forefront of the American consciousness. Even today, gay marriage and other rights of gays and lesbians are being challenged in major political races across the country. Since Stonewall, gays and lesbians have made it a point to nurture and create communities that caters to their needs and wants. Most major cities have gone so far as to establish gay communities to help flounder this, Montreal being one of those cities which has created the largest gay district in North America. The mid western cities littered though out the United States are starting to follow suit. Columbus, Ohio has a flourishing gay area and here are some places that gays and lesbians traveling to Columbus must see during their stay.

When visiting a city for more than one night, one of your major concerns would naturally be where you are going to get your beauty rest. Fro gays and lesbians, this is a concern because they are going to want to feel free to hug their boyfriend and kiss their girlfriends without drawing gasps and strange looks. While visiting Columbus, I would suggest laying your pretty head at the Courtyard Marriott downtown Columbus. This three star hotel is within walking distance of the cities gay district and will their attendants will not raise an eyebrow when the book equipped with only a queen size bed for two men traveling together or turn their heads to see two men embraced in a passionate goodbye kiss feet from the doors that enter into the lobby. The only thing that one would have to be careful of is the close proximity also to the city's convention center.

There is more to picking a place to eat then finding a place to end your hunger. When visiting a city, what is the use simply eating a McDonald's or Chipotle? You can find one of those in any major city in the United States. That's no fun. When you have graced a different city with your presence, one of the best ways to experience the city's flava' is by tasting a different one. Like in most gay districts of cities in the United States, some of the best eateries can be found where the "Queens" play and this truth has not been lost on the land locked city of Columbus. While here, I would recommend walking from you hotel room just a few short block north on High Street and treat your taste buds to the delectable wares that can be found at 8. 8 is a new restaurant in Columbus that fuses upscale dinning with dirt cheap prices. Try their tuna fish and mushroom soup combo for $7, you will not be disappointed.

Now that you have settled in to your nice three star hotel room and filled your stomach with some local delectable eats, now it is time to research the real reason that you traveled to the middle of Ohio; to PARTY. Though cites such as Montreal, New York, Miami Los Angeles and San Francisco boast some of the sweetest eye candy, a good ol' fashioned, corn bread country boy should not be subtracted from the list as quickly as some may think to. This may be one of the reasons why some may surpass the larger cities to visit Columbus. For us folks that are in our mid to late twenties, the perfect place to let your hair down is at Q. Q is just walking distance from your Marriott oasis to the east. Though small, Q has two levels with lounging areas, a dance floor, square bar tops and a front bar, this little chib (Korean for house) can pack a big punch.As the night wore on the capacity of the little placed filled and I felt as if I was in Chicago at Hydrate on a Saturday night.

So the next time that you want to travel to a city to check out its gay scene, do not discount the Midwest. It has more to offer than one may think!

My View of Newport, Rhode Island

My first visit to Newport, Rhode Island was as a young, 24-year-old who was in love and engaged to be married. I drove there from Washington, D.C. to meet my fiance and stay at his parents' home for Christmas. We decided to take a drive down along the beach, and even got out of the car for a short stroll. Having grown up in Colorado, I was shocked at the cold, bitterness of the wind as it swept across Aquidneck Island; but the Atlantic Ocean was blue and beautiful, and Newport was all decked out for the Christmas holiday. My future in-laws' home was a 100-year-old former villa turned bed and breakfast. It was cozy and wonderful. We stayed five days before driving back to D.C. and getting married on New Year's Day.

After moving to California with the Navy, the next time we went to Newport was for my sister-in-law's wedding. We stayed again at the beautiful home of my in laws, but this time it was summer, and we were able to see more of what makes Newport tick. Newport is a summer resort that began as a place for summer cottages of the rich and famous back during the early part of the 20th century. Of course, the term "cottages" is subjective, as today many of those same cottages are giant mansions that are used as museums and theaters. People were drawn to Newport because of the mild summer climate that offered warm temperatures, as well as cool ocean breezes. Newport also might seem cold in the winter, but its snowfall is one of the lowest in New England. My first visit to Newport in the summer was delightful. We drove to nearby Portsmouth and had lunch at a local harbor pub. Later that evening, we went for a walk on the beach. Tourists were everywhere, but we did not mind.

My next visit to Newport was as a new resident. The Navy brought us there to live for six months; just long enough to give birth to our third child. Life was crazy then and our six months was from November to May, with most of that time finding us at about the 4 degree Fahrenheit mark on the thermometer. We also received several feet of snow. That year - the one time we made our home in Newport - all snowfall records were broken. Go figure.

Many more years went by and we did visit Newport one other time, for yet another wedding, but most of our married life seemed to be taking place in California. Yet, my husband finally got out of the Navy after twelve years and decided he wanted to be back on the East Coast. While we waited hopefully for a job to open up in Maine, we moved in with the beloved in laws with the big house in Newport. Of course, while their house seemed large when it was just me and my husband, it quickly shrunk when we added our three children, two dogs, and two cats. We spent 9-weeks that summer in Newport, but it was a time I would not trade for anything. We took our children to a Vacation Bible school at a local church, we took boat rides along the coast, we visited local farms and nurseries, we visited nearby attractions, such as Sturbridge Village in Massachusetts, and of course, we spent a lot of time at the beach. There were tense times, as two families tried to reside together, but we all got along wonderfully.

Now, again, many years later, we still live in Maine and the in laws still live in scenic Newport. As the in laws are getting older and like to spend much of their time in Florida, we are often asked to go to Newport to house sit their many cats. It is always a treat to go back. Newport, Rhode Island is now like a second home to me. We like to take long strolls along the Cliff Walk that winds along the coast behind many of the famous mansions. We like to visit the eclectic restaurants down town, and we love to shop in the stores along the Brick Alley. Newport is home to so many attractions and visitors will enjoy eating, shopping, seeing the sights and going to the beach; but there is nothing like spending time in Newport as a resident. It has a charm that cannot be matched.

Booking an Early Ski or Snowboard Getaway

By Christina VanGinkel

Snowboard season is almost here. Each fall, it seems like it is a million days away, then before I know it I hear my son talking about the local mountain making snow to build up its base for the real snow that will be falling before too long. In our neck of the woods, which happens to be the very most northern part of Wisconsin and the beautiful Upper Michigan, the projected week for the opening of almost every mountain around us is the week of Thanksgiving. This is just the projected date though, and it often does not happen until the week or even two weeks later, (though occasionally before) all depending on how well the weather cooperates. In addition, when they do open, they often only open for a day or two, then close to groom for a few days, sometimes only staying open on the weekends themselves the first few weeks. Yet we heard last week that in a few spots around Colorado, a few runs and lifts were already open for business. This is a good example of the different schedules for skiing or snowboarding that you can find in different areas of the country.

Depending on where you live, these differences in time frames for opening runs, means that you might be able to plan a weekend getaway within driving distance, or it might mean a flight cross country. Of course, if you are willing, you can fly to somewhere at almost any time of the year and find snow worthy of skiing or snowboarding on, but the average person looking for a few days on the slopes cannot afford trips such as those that will get you to the majority of those hot spots.

So what is a traveler to do at this time of year that would like to get away for some early slope time? The best thing to do is actually get on the phone and call up the resort you are interested in visiting to see what their schedule is as far as runs and lifts that they have open. Some areas, such as those out west, can give you concrete information for the current and upcoming schedule for the next few weeks, while others, such as many that you will find across the Midwest, can only provide you with information relevant for the immediate future. As an example, a couple of years ago, the mountain closest to our home was open over the week of Thanksgiving, but then had to close the first week of December due to rain! The season did not get off to a steady start that year until the week of Christmas.

If you plan to visit an area where such occurrences are more common than some might imagine, avoid booking airline tickets in advance unless you can change the travel dates without too much of a hassle and overly excessive charges. You should also have a personal schedule that can be changed around, and lodging that understands that you might be cancelling at the last minute and needing to rebook a week or two later for the same reasons.

If you are just dying to get on the slopes and you do not have the ability to change your travel dates on the whim of the weather, picking a resort that is already well established with snow even early in the season is going to be your safest bet. This will hold true even if the overall cost is a bit higher than a similar resort in an area of the country where the weather likes to remind everyone that Mother Nature does what she wants to when she feels like it. The benefits though, are that many of these same resorts offer early bird specials to customers for some of these very reasons, so bargains on lift tickets, lodging, and even nighttime entertainment can be found.

If playing games with travel dates is just not your idea of fun at all, then you might want to hold off all together on such a vacation and travel later in the season. Do keep in mind that discounted prices can be a great reason to take that ski or snowboard vacation now and not in the throes of winter a couple of months from now though.

Madrid: Fun and Beauty in the Desert by Rich Carriero

The bus ride from San Sebastian wove its way down out of the green foothills of the Pyrenees. As the bus entered the interior of Spain the landscape changed dramatically. Instead of the forests and hills, the mild Atlantic climate and seabreezes from the Bay of Biscay, we entered a country of brown and red with large wind worn rocks and mountains hammered by the sun. The outside temperature rose steadily from a comfortable 75 degrees to a scorching 95. The ride was long and exhausting and we arrived around sunset. The bus terminal was underground and was connected to the metro system. The metro reminded me of New York's subway system as the stifling heat was trapped by the tunnels and baked everyone as they waited for the trains. I found my way on the metro to Calle de las Huertas, the busy street near which my hostel was located. It was night as I left the metro tunnel and made my way through the streets seeking my accomodations. The air was hot and dry and filled with an incredible volume of sights, sounds and smells. I had never been so completely immersed in the Spanish language. Hundreds of people milled about; they were thin dark skinned people dressed in the height of European fashion. Eateries, cafes and bars emanated all manner of smells: acrid cigarette and cigar smoke, irresistable smells of seafood, spices, wine, roasted meats. The desert evening air blew pleasantly through the city, which was a relief after the hot sunshine. After getting these first glimpses of the Spanish capital I was excited to drop my bags and check out the city. In a week's stay I would not be disappointed by Madrid. While I had already experienced two wonderful Spanish cities in Santander and San Sebastian, Madrid was truly an explosion of life.

My hostel, Posada de Colon, was a very busy place. I bunked in a large room with 6 other guys. Most of my roommates were Americans coming from Boston, New York and California but there were others from Australia, Italy and France. Over the 8 days of my stay I would come to meet many interesting people. One of my roommates was Patrick, a dark haired Argentinian who relocated to Australia as an infant and spoke with a thick Aussie accent, was a skilled mountain biker and daily rode out into the desert heat for his rigorous training. Matt and Steve were Americans on their first trip in Europe. They came straight from Boston and though they wore the clothes and grooming of seasoned businessmen on holiday, at heart they were both rollicking frat boys looking for a good time. Everyone was a stranger and everyone was excited to be in Madrid. It reminded me of freshman year in college when no one knows anyone else and everyone makes fast friends. We all bonded instantly and would venture out into the nonstop party of Madrid's nightlife.

My hostel, while crowded, was well equipped with computers, bathrooms and showers, washing machines and dryers. The kitchen and courtyard were places of nonstop activity where the dozens of guests would come together to eat, drink, play cards and socialize with one another. The balcony of our room overlooked the nonstop activity of Calle Cruellas. a narrow street parallel to las Huertas that was lined with hotels and cafes. On any given night people would hang out, play music or drink wine from a nearby bar. The day I arrived Real Madrid won a major soccer match and all week green and white clad fans roamed the streets chanting fight songs and living it up in the streets around the hostel. Posada de Colon was ideally situated near the heart of Madrid. Several large plazas lined with cafes and wine shops were mere minutes away including Puerta del Sol, Madrid's answer Time Square or Piccadilly Circus. Several Metro stations could be reached on foot very quickly.

After a day of relaxing, taking in Madrid's cafes, restaurants, bars and nightclubs, my first priority was to visit the city's famous art museums. The big 3 in Madrid- are disparate collection of museums housing ancient and contemporary works from Spain, Europe and indeed everywhere else. My first stop was the Reina Sofia, a contemporary art museum known predominately for its collection of spanish exhibits. I visited this museum early, before crowds of tourists arrived. The exhibits that I saw were a wonderful collection of colorful and passionate work. Everywhere were the finest works of Picasso. I could not take my eyes off of the Guernica, a work which I had seen in books, but I was completely unprepared for its power when seen in person. The monochromatic masterpiece is much larger than I suspected. The exaggeration of the human form conveys the horror and hysteria of the Guernica massacre. The stark blacks, whites and greys came to life before my eyes. It was some time before I walked away from the great painting. In the Reina Sofia there were many other Picasso works as well as paintings by Joan Miro and Salvadore Dali. The art which I saw that day rivals anything I have seen in any art museum.

The following day I visited the Museu del Prado. The Prado specializes in older works from the Renaissance through the 18th century. The Prado's collection of religious artwork is unparalelled and reflects the deep influence of Catholocism on Spanish culture. My favorite works were those by Francisco de Goya, who is considered by many to be the greatest Spanish painter in history. Goya's 3rd of May contains many elements of the impressionism movement although it was painted a half century before impressionism's acceptance. The Prado also houses works by Velasquez, Titian, El Greco and other ancient masters. Outside of the Prado is an extensive botanical garden which I visited to escape the heat which is a constant feature of Madrid's arid climate.

Later in the week I visited Madrid's third major art museum the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. The Thyssen is very different from the Prado and the Reina-Sofia in that it does not specialize in any category of art. Rather the exhibits are an immense private collection sold to the Spanish government. The collection spans centuries and decades, serving as an art history lesson to the untrained eye. The collection contains lesser known pieces by Van Gogh, Monet, Miro and Dali. I was amused and somewhat homesick to see an American exhibit of 18th and 19th century landscape painting, depicting forests, waterfalls and mountains of the American frontier. The Thyssen rounds out Madrid's incredible exhibitions of art, but there was much more still to see.

A regular destination during my stay in Madrid was the Plaza Mayor. The plaza is surrounded by a red palace dating back to the 16th century. Nine of Madrid's oldest and most important streets intersect at the plaza and can be seen through the large archways which serve as Plaza Mayor's entrances. In the center is a statue of King Phillip II, one of Spain's most famous monarchs. The Plaza Mayor is a popular tourist spot and is always filled with people. Several cafes and restaurants are located inside the plaza as well as numerous shops selling souvenirs. Another feature of the plaza is the presence of street performers who dress up as statues and move in slow, eerie movements, thanking those who drop a coin into their cup. The Madrid tourist information center is located in the Plaza Mayor and has computers that visitors can use free of charge for 15 minutes.

Only yards away from the Plaza Mayor is the Puerta del Sol, the largest and most popular tourist destination. The Puerta del Sol serves as the heart of the city with the most important thoroughfares extending from the plaza to the various districts of the city. Thousands of people can be found in the large plaza day and night. Giant billboards and neon signs shine down upon visitors. In the center is a fountain and equestrian statue of King Charles III. During the day Puerta del Sol was a regular sight as I travelled along Madrid's streets admiring their architecture and window shopping. At night the plaza was a place for meeting up with friends and a cool place to hang out.

Madrid is a city with so many things to do and see. In addition to art and architecture the city has many gorgeous parks which are cool sanctuaries from the heat. The parks are always filled with people playing games or relaxing. The Casa de Campo is largest park in Madrid. On the outskirts of the city, Casa de Campo is filled with wooded paths, picnic tables and a very large lake. The lake is always studded with kayaks and rowboats. Nearby is the Palacio Real, or Royal Palace, an immense palace with extensive grounds. The palace houses the royal armory. Adjacent to the palace is the Cathedral de Almudena, a white cathedral of impressive size built for the Spanish royal family. Most of the buildings in Madrid were all built between the 16th and 20th centuries. In fact the city has only been the capital of Spain for the past few centuries, the medieval capital of Toledo has much older palaces. This modern character does not take away from Madrid's appeal, however, as the city is incredibly fashionable and beautiful in a more renaissance style.

The nightlife in Madrid is incredible. Most days during the summer people flock to the clubs and bars of Madrid. Bourbon Cafe on Calle Jeronimo is bar with a New Orleans theme. There are extensive wooden dance floors and a DJ playing contemporary American and European hip hop and dance music. Palacio Guaviria, on the other hand is a huge club near Puerta del Sol with many different rooms each with different themed music. The classic decor of Palacio Guaviria is set by plush curtains, chairs and sofas with chandeliers. Palacio is always filled with hundreds of people enjoying cocktails and dancing. In Madrid tourists and locals have no problem getting along and everyone focuses on having a good time. Everywhere my friends and I went we had a great time. After a week immersed in the irresistable culture of Madrid I found it hard to part company with the city and my new friends.

A Brief Guide to Dining in Alexandria, VA

by Justin Goff

From time to time, visitors to Washington, DC will find themselves swept a few miles down the Potomac, disgorged by their tour buses in Old Town Alexandria for an afternoon. Likewise, business travelers occasionally find they have booked rooms near the King Street Metro Station, a growing neighborhood only two Metro stops away from Reagan National Airport and a short, scenic Metro ride from the Pentagon and from downtown DC.

While few travelers make Alexandria their primary destination, most learn to make the most of the time they spend here, taking advantage of our quaint little oasis from the hustle and bustle of the Beltway. Visitors shop, visit our historic buildings and musems, and enjoy street performances on Old Town's fair-like waterfront.

Most importantly, however, visitors eat. Alexandria has a well-earned reputation as one of the best places for a meal inside the Beltway, offering a bewildering array of choices, from boardwalk fries and burgers to French haute cuisine. This article highlights just a few of the best bets for newcomers to the Alexandria culinary scene.

First, a word about Alexandria's culinary geography: the closer you get to the water, or the closer you get to King Street, the more expensive everything gets. For the most part, then, the cheapest eats are to be found inland and on the side streets, or (literally) on the other side of the Metro tracks, to the west and north. This article presents a few choices from each price range and each area, but is in no way comprehensive or complete--even Alexandria natives can't possibly eat everything the city has to offer, and exploring new restaurants is a local pastime that can't be beat!

Visitors seeking low-fuss American fare generally do best to stick nearer to the Metro line, in the Upper King Street neighborhood. This area features a branch of the locally-famous Five Guys Burgers and Fries (near the intersection of King and Fayette, link), a no-frills Boardwalk-style lunch counter specializing, as you might have guessed, in juicy burgers and thick-cut peanut-oil fries (and, besides hot dogs, not much else). Waits can get long in the evenings and on weekends, so unless you call ahead, don't plan on treating Five Guys as fast food. Do plan on Five Guys for a late-night snack--their generous french fries are sure to keep you till morning.

The Upper King Street area also offers several options for sit-down American dining. The Tiffany Tavern (on King Street, link) is a regional bluegrass mecca, featuring live performances or open mikes nearly every night of the week. The food isn't spectacular--think East Coast diner food plus bar fare, slightly overpriced--but the casual atmosphere is a big draw for business travellers looking to unwind after a long day's work. Across the street, you can find the Rock-It Grill, the Tiffany Tavern's 1950s-style doppelganger, with worse music but better food. The Rock-It is also even more informal than the Tiffany Tavern, featuring karaoke, billiards, and--most importantly--specials almost every night of the week.

At the higher end of simple American cuisine, the Upper King Street neighborhood offers Joe Theismann's (yes, that Joe Theismann's) Restaurant (link), a slightly classier TGIFriday's clone with an unobtrusive sports-bar theme. Theismann's strong suit is undoubtedly its sandwiches and fries--the blackened chicken sandwich is particularly good.

As you move further down King Street, the dining options become a bit more culturally diverse. Sultan Kabob (Henry and Cameron, one block north of King) offers simple, affordable Persian cuisine with a heft dash of almost oppressive hospitality. Twin Asian eateries Asian Cafe and Non La (King Street) offer, you guessed it, pan-Asian cuisine, with the latter displaying a particular Vietnamese twist. (Non La also offers half-off entrees on Sundays.) The Austin Grill (link), a quirky DC-area tex-mex chain, can be found at the corner of King St. and Columbus. And even authentic Irish lunch-counter fare is available at Eamon's, which bills itself as a classic Dublin chipper (i.e., fish, more fish, and chips), though its fare is a little overpriced for anyone less than desperate for a fish-and-chips fix.

The Middle King Street area also features three of Alexandria's true local gems. Murphy's Pub (King Stree) is as authentic an Irish pub as you can find this side of the Atlantic--dark wood decor, hearty entrees, and good beer. Stick to the Irish classics here--meat pies, stews--and possibly some American bar food standbys. Taverna Cretekou (King Street, link) offers upscale Greek cuisine in a festive setting, including patio seating straight out of the Old World. Alongside familiar standards like roast lamb and spanikopita you can find a number of lesser-known Greek and Classical dishes--here, everything is worth a try. Finally, King Street Blues (oddly enough, located just off of King Street, on St. Asaph) offers the best of American Southern fare, with a distinct Creole-Cajun flair (link), served up in a quirky, narrow, three-story bar and dining room steeped in New Orleans style.

For its part, Lower King Street offers some of the very best and very worst (or at least most overpriced) of Alexandria dining. Here, the best bets and the best deals are found a block or two off of King. Near City Hall, just down the street from the Old Town Alexandria Visitor's Center, rabid anglophiles can treat themselves to pasties or an afternoon tea at The British Collection Company (South Royal), a cozy little tearoom and specialty shop featuring an array of British breakfasts and lunches. The teas are second to none. The Union Street Public House (Union Street) also has a certain British flair, though Americanized, offering upscale pub food, steaks, and a variety of craft beers in an elegant, Gilded-Age-themed dining room and bar, where the hospitality is second to none.

Two blocks on the other side of King Street, you can find side-by-side two of Old Town's best and most overlooked restaurants--Queen Street is, after all, two blocks out of most tourists' ways. Momo is a miniature hole-in-the-wall sushi bar offering consistently superb fish and a number of creative house concoctions. But be advised: Momo seats about 12, with its biggest table seating 4, so it's a poor choice for large parties, and you will want to have a back up plan in case there's a wait.

Just next door, the whimsically-named Bilbo Baggins (link) boasts Alexandria's largest and most eclectic beer and wine lists, as well as an inspired, crowd-pleasing menu of innovative, hearty American fare, served in a rustic dining room by an enthusiastic staff. Not only is Bilbo Baggins a venerable icon of Alexandria dining, it is one of those rare icons that meets and even exceeds expectations: this is a dining experience not to be missed.

Finally, the waterfront area of King Street does offer at least one solid and consistent value in the Fish Market, one block off the water on King. The Fish Market is iconic Tidewater/Down East seafood at its finest: simple, fresh, and usually fried. Everything is very good, but the crab imperial is especially addictive. Street-side outdoor seating also offers an Old-Country-Style view of the King Street waterfront's festival air. If you're only in Alexandria for an evening and you want a flavor of what life is like on the "Fun Side of the Potomac," the Fish Market is the place to be.

San Sebastian: the Heart of Basque Country by Rich Carriero

The bus from Santander rose ever higher into the green hills, winding through narrow passes on the route east. Rock formations, stacked high with brown and red shelves of stone jutted up toward the roadside. Sometimes the shoulder would drop away and I would look over at the precipitous drop below. The countryside was an ever-present green with the occasional splashes of red in the form of rooftops on white houses. The ride took only a few hours. I sat with Vicki, a girl from Germany who spoke very good English and Spanish. She was going to San Sebastian to find a job in tourism. She told me many interesting things about Spain and the Basque country that we were entering. For myself I traveled to San Sebastian to satisfy a long curiosity. I had first read about San Sebastian and Basque country in a book I had read as a child called Bridle the Wind. In the story the main character travels from France through Basque country to his home in Spain in the years after the Napoleonic wars. His companion, a young basque girl in disguise as a boy, tries to teach him the difficult Basque language and unique culture. The scenery and culture depicted in the book capture my imagination. Hemingway also described this corner Spain in The Sun Also Rises and For Whom the Bell Tolls. I was very excited to see it for myself.

The Basque people are a mystery. The Basque language, Euskal, bears almost no relation to other languages in Europe. Some say that the Basques are a remnant of the first immigration of human beings into Europe and date back to the stone age. Others believe the Basques to be descended from Muslim tribes or Indian nomads. Whatever their origin the Basques have managed to weather the tides of invasion and conquest that have flowed through Europe for millennia. For this reason Basque culture is both unique and proud. Even to recent times Basque independence movements have consistently recurred. Although Basque country historically is comprised of territory in both Spain and France straddling the pyrenees mountains, at this point only a small portion of that country is autonomous.

San Sebastian, or Donostia as the basques call it, has many historic locations to visit. The Basque Art Museum houses many beautiful modern and classical paintings and sculptures. The museum, housed in a large medieval villa with a sunlit courtyard, also has many exhibits depicting scenes of traditional Basque farming and pastoral lifestyle. A journey up the slopes of Monte Urgull offer a glimpse of well preserved Napoleonic fortifications, complete with fortress and cannons. To the east, the precipitous slopes of Monte Ulia are notched with trailmarkers that signify the path of a catholic pilgramage route along the rocky crags of the surrounding mountains. This path should only be attempted by seasoned climbers, however, as it can be quite dangerous. In the course of my stay I did check out these beautiful landmarks, along with walking tours of the old town and a trip to the romanesque cathedral but the main purpose of my stay was to enjoy the leisurely and invigorating atmosphere.

I arrived in San Sebastian and I could immediately sense the differences between the city and other parts of Spain that I had seen. San Sebastian has a medieval aspect with many churches, palaces and beautiful buildings. The city is ringed with the foothills of the pyrenees. Three principle headlands divide San Sebastian's shore into two bays. San Sebastian's principle boatdocks are found in the Bay de la Concha. The Playa de la Concha, a large crescent shaped beach known for its placid surf is ideal for swimming, sailing and sunbathing. Monte Urgull, a large mountain headland dominates the bay, is crowned with a military fortress left over from the Napoleonic wars and a statue of Christ with arms outstretched. During my stay in San Sebastian I would often climb the wooded paths of Monte Urgull and sit on the benches and admire the idyllic settings: the view of the city and pyrenees to the south, the Bay of Biscay and Bay of la Concha to the north. To the east the Bay de la Zoriolla is more exposed to the rough surf of the Bay of Biscay. Playa de la Zoriolla's surf makes it a popular place with surfers and body boarders. I love to body surf so I spent most of my time at the Playa de la Zoriolla. The temperature of the water in the Bay was not very warm and reminded me of the Atlantic Ocean on the Jersey shore during the summer time.

The night life in San Sebastian is one of its premiere attractions. San Sebastian is known very well for its tapas bars. Tapas bars are small bars that serve platters of finger food for a low price along with their alcoholic beverages. Most tapas bars serve some for of seafood specialty along with cheese, cured meats and olives. Legend has it that tapas bars originate from an antiquated law that required bar patrons to eat one piece of food with every drink consumed in order to decrease intoxication. It is customary in San Sebastian to travel from bar to bar eating a few pieces of tapas and enjoying a few drinks. On any given night in San Sebastian hundreds of barhoppers crowd the narrow streets of the city's old town going from bar to bar enjoying the music, dancing, food and drinks.

Staying in San Sebastian offered me an opportunity experience more of a traditional spanish lifestyle. There are no grocery stores in San Sebastian but a central underground market filled with butcher shops, cheese shops and fish shops served the freshest foods. In my hostel, Lolo Urban house, each day the guests would take turns cooking fresh foods from the markets in the community kitchen. It was an immense pleasure to enjoy a fresh meal for breakfast, a picnic lunch on the beach or on Monte Urgull and then a light supper at the tapas bars. San Sebastian is also a place with an incredible international flavor. The superb beaches of the city attract thousands of surfers from places like Australia, Canada and the US and the nightlife draws tourism from every corner of Europe.

The four days that I spent in San Sebastian greatly exceeded my expectations. The beaches, mountains and scenery made for a relaxing and stirring setting. I often found myself reading and writing in my journal for hours. I also spent many hours on the beach, enjoying the sun and waves. The beaches were packed all week with thousands of gorgeous young people. At night, the tapas bars were always bustling and I found each night out lasted until the early morning hours. While I was looking forward to heading on to Madrid when my stay was over, I did feel a twinge of regret to leave such an incredible European paradise.

Visiting Lord Of The Rings Locations In New Zealand

By Simon Woodhouse.

The first of the Lord Of The Rings films may have been released nearly five years ago (Fellowship Of The Ring, December 2001), and we've all watched them numerous times on DVD since then, but they're still just as good today as when they first arrived in cinemas. A combination of factors made them great - good acting, decent script, excellent special effects and spectacular scenery. The first three of these achievements are due in no small part to the people involved in the production; the scenery however, is pure New Zealand.

For those of you who might not know, New Zealand is spread across two islands - the North Island and the South Island. The Lord Of The Rings production visited various locations spread across the length of breadth of both islands. As the film crew stopped over in so many different places, I'll start toward the top of the North Island and work my way gradually down the country.

A good hours drive south from Auckland, New Zealand's largest city, is the tiny coastal town of Port Waikato. A few brief scenes were filmed in the rugged countryside around the town, most of them concerning the journey of Aragorn and the hobbits as they made their way to Weathertop. Carrying on south, the small town of Matamata lies a couple of hours from Port Waikato. Here a lot more filming took place, as it's the location of the Hobbiton set. Guided tours are offered by the farmer on whose land the filming occured, but he's not allowed to alter or repair anything the movie people left behind, and what is there has been affected by several years of New Zealand weather.

The middle of the North Island is home to one of New Zealand's most active volcanoes - Mount Ruapehu. The desolate countryside surrounding the volcano doubled as the Gorgorath Plains, the Emyn Muil and the Black Gate of Mordor. The final battle at the end of Return Of The King was also filmed here. Mount Tongariro, near Ruapehu, played Mount Doom itself. The Rangitikei River flows away from the volcano, and part of it served as the River Anduin.

At the bottom of the North Island sits the New Zealand capital of Wellington. Seeing as the city is home to the production company who made the films, it's not surprising a lot of the location work took place in and around this part of the country. In fact, Wellington probably makes the best base from which to visit as many locations as possible, in the shortest amount of time. Within the city itself, an old quarry was used first as the location for the Helms Deep set, which was then taken down and the same spot turned into Minas Tirith. Mount Victoria, a hillside park in the very centre of the city, became the location for the hobbits first encounter with a Black Rider, and also served as the area where they were chased to the Buckleberry Ferry. Outside of the city, but all within a radius of fifty miles, are the locations used for the Osgiliath Woodlands, the Hobbiton Woods, Rivendell, Isengard, Crossroads of Mordor, and the approach to the Paths of the Dead.

Take the ferry from Wellington across the Cook Strait, and you reach the top of the South Island. Head west from Nelson, the largest town in the area, and you're in the Eregion Hills, landscape that served as the Rough Country south of Rivendell. Also in this area is Mount Olympus, and it was here that the Fellowship hid from Saruman's crows in the first film.

The central South Island region of Canterbury played host to one of the most stunning outdoor locations used in any of the three films - the Edoras set. In the middle of a river valley called Rangitata, sits the lonely silhouette of Mount Sunday. At the top of this wind-swept outcrop of rock, the set builders worked for eleven months to build Edoras. Though only used for six weeks of filming, the location nonetheless shows some of New Zealand's most impressive, if not a little bleak, countryside.

Landscape further south around Queenstown offered multiple locations, almost as many as dotted in and around Wellington. Within a fifty mile radius are the East Rd (scene of Frodo's flight from the Black Riders aided by Arwen in the first film), the Ford of Bruin, Lothlorien Woods, Fangorn Forest, the Plains of Rohan, and the Dead Marshes. Now we're nearly at the bottom of the South Island, and it's here the filming of the Misty Mountain scenes took place.

Almost 500 miles separate the first and last locations, with almost every major region of New Zealand used to some extent during the filming. The country couldn't ask for a better showcase of its scenery, and though many of the scenes were digitally enhanced, a lot of what appeared on the screen was totally un-spoilt. Organized tours are available of most of the major locations, but with a bit of planning and a hire car, you can see them all at your own pace. And if you're a walker, taking the time to head out on foot offers even better rewards. So if you've a hankering to visit Middle Earth, it's all here waiting for you.